All body parts are from an 89 hatch. Don't ask me if they will fit anything else because I don't know.
1 x front bumper (cut out middle part to make way for intercooler) $15
2 x rear bumpers (one is perfect, the other has a crack on the passenger side) $25 and $15 respectively
1 x front bumper filler (dented on driver's side) - $10
2 x rear bumper filler (1 perfect, other is bent/denter on passenger side) $10 and $5 respectively
1 x set of rear bumper foam thingys - free with the purchase of rear bumper
OEM front brake system (calipers, rotors (drilled and slotted), lines, pads (90%), bracket, and all nuts, bolts and washers) - $100
1 x passenger clear corner (black) $5
1 x NIB kingston DDR2 1GB PC2-6400 notebook ram $15
B16A short block complete - make offer
B18B short block complete - make offer
B16A injectors - make offer
2.5" crush bend cat-back exhaust with fart can muffler - $50
more to come.
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1 set (passenger and driver side) door panels for 89 civic hatch.
1 set forged 80mm 9:1 pistons (used) don't need the used rings
1 set of forged B16 rods (used)
1 set B16 valvetrain (used) titanium, high performance i.e. S2, supertech, etc.
1 used B16/ITR intake manifold high performance (not OEM) like S2, blox, etc.
1 89 civic hatchback carpet black (no tears, stains)
1 AC unit for EF with B16 (bracket, compressor, condensor, pipes and wiring)
Bump for your 420th post! blaze it up! LOL (I don't smoke, but I thout it would be funny)
some shots of the stuff for sale
bumper definitely needs paint, and some new grill mesh. Don't get it from auto zone (that's what is in there now) It just started coming apart at one of the seams for no reason...
I think the turn signal lights alone are worth more than I'm asking for the entire bumper...
The same rear bumper that has a crack down the passenger side also looks like the driver side is cracked, but it's actually just the paint that's cracked. If you sand it all off, it is smooth underneath.
complete stock EF front brakes including lines. don't worry about the rust. You can have auto zone turn them for like $10 each.
Oh, BTW, that master cylinder is off a DA. I thought it would bolt in to my EF booster, but I'm here to tell you it doesn't. The bolts are in opposite directions. I would have to switch to a DA booster, and I don't feel like taking those pesky bolts out from behind the firewall. It's too damn tight up there... ( my excuse for being lazy)
a couple more shots of the Honda "truck motor" LOL
*disclaimer* I bought this block off a guy that told me it worked perfectly in his car. I also bought a tranny off this same guy who also said the tranny worked perfectly in his car, but somehow, when i put it in my car, it grinded in 3rd gear and made a really wierd clicking noise in reverse.
I never used it because I bought the block before I read about all the horror stories of guys boosing their B20s and ending up with cracked sleeves, so I decided to stick with my B16.
As you can see, it's been sitting in my back yard for about 6 months. I just keep it covered with plastic bags to keep as much moisture out as possible.
IMO, muuuuuuch easier to tell if a block is no good because you can visually see everything. Trannys are a little more mysterious to me because after popping the bell housing off them, I get lost in all the gears. I have no idea what to look for. A block however is a little easier. Just take it to a machine shop, and have its clearances checked. Much cheaper...
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